As expected it's cold, even allowing the sun to rise a little before we get up. We are backtracking a few miles along Lake Roberts then heading over a steep ridge to see the Gila Cave Dwellings so we wear most of our clothing but otherwise the bikes are gloriously unloaded. The climb starts very steeply but eases to a long slog through the pines to 7400' and a spectacular viewpoint before a steep fast descent and a fairly easy 5 miles on the flat to the Cave Dwellings.

The view from 7400' over Gila National Forest
We leave the bikes with the forest staff and take a path up a ravine to an area where caves in the cliffs above the valley were occupied by 40-60 people in about 1270-90. Their relatively complex collection of buildings were fascinating and well worth the effort.

Entrance to the ravine

The cliff

The cliff and caves

Buildings in the cave

Of course we still had to return over the same ridge, and the climb from the north side is even steeper but it actually feels easier than the morning climb and we are back at the campsite ahead of schedule to pack and move on. A long, slow, easy climb carries us to the final ( and least impressive) crossing of the Continental Divide.
A gentle descent brings us to (yet another) good Mexican restaurant, then further down the hill to a Subway where we purchase a footlong sub: 6'' for dinner and 6" for breakfast as we are heading to one of the primitive campsites part way up Emory Pass. This is the last and biggest climb of the trip and we've planned to do it over 2 days. Sure enough the climb is very long and tough, but the campsite is beautiful, peaceful and free.

