05/05/93 (60km) - Back through the tea and down the little road to Chintheche; lots of agriculture to look at on the way - macadamia nuts, rubber and rice. The road does not look well used and things start to go wrong as it peters out after 10km or so - I get to a dead end in the midst of a downpour which makes things worse, then the back tyre splits just like the first [sidewall gave way like on the first day of the ride], wrecking the tube. My spares at Nkhotakota seem a long way away [I'd stashed a collection of spare parts (tyres, spokes, bearings) with friends in different parts of the country] but things look up: the sun comes out and repairs are effected at Chombe rubber factory.
Back on the right road I meet the Cooks (rubber producer expats) - people who have asked my name all wonder if they are relatives! All goes well along the Chinteche road but I soon find out why everyone has warned me about it - there is a river going across the way after Saturday's rain (63mm - 2Ñ in - in a day!). Nothing for it but to wade knee deep [I watched an old man wade first to be sure of the depth] which leaves the drivetrain grinding worse than before. The repaired inner tube has already gone so I've used the last spare and depression is setting in, worsened by the repair [of the outer tyre] beginning to give way at Chinteche. A "bodge job" with string is the DIY answer [basically suturing the split by driving holes in the tyre wall either side and tieing the sides together, a technique the rubber workers had come up with - though their repair was giving way because they used lighter twine] and a bit of oiling at PVHO [Private ! Vehicle Hire Organization - I forget what this organization was] gets me on the way again without quite so much friction: but will the trye get to Nkhotakota? Oh well, at least I can hitch!
Decide to splurge at Chinteche Inn [a government hotel on the lake] - bit run down but beautiful as the sun goes down and the full moon rises over the lake. Time to sit out for the evening, try out the new "Moz-bar" for effectiveness [soap with mosquito repellent] and forget about tomorrow.
06/05/93 (150km) - Up for the sunrise - I'd better go early if there's going to be trouble with tyres. The first 30km are quite tough - sand and rock giving way to the first of the roadworks with more sand and wet mud [the new lakeshore road was under construction at this time: last time I had ridden it (Xmas 1990) it was narrow with a constant roller coaster of short climbs and drops]. Soon, though, the road is fully made and can by cycled - soon after that it's open to traffic. And what an improvement on the old road: flat, good surface etc. Spurred on by bananas (10t - about 1p or 1.5c) and water I make Dwangwa [a sugar plantation] and enjoy the relief of several cold drinks. The place is full of azungus [europeans], 4 hitching north and 6 bikers heading south en route from Ghana to South Africa. A long rest provides some relief (I'm very tired and hot) and the tyre is still going - chabwino.
55km to Nkhotakota is tough and hot but has to be done!It takes a while with the headwind and it's a relief to get to Katie's - where John does a mean cup of tea. Quiet evening and plenty of food is ideal - and it's a rest day tomorrow - yippee!
07/05/93 (0km) - Very easy day - can't even be bothered to go to the lake. Read Private Eye, write, eat, relax - luxury. Weigh myself at Nkhotokota Hospital - still 11st 10 (164 lbs) so the fat is turning to muscle! Pleasant evening with the locum at St Anne's (Rupert) and his wife with eating (again), bridge and a lot of chat (mainly from him!). My ankle with tendonitis feels a lot better for the rest, Steve's coming for the weekend to bring tyres and the bike is fine when I check it over so things look good for the future. The only problem in the day is Katie's cockerel which attacks me a couple of times - chucking rotten guavas at it fails but a kick to the sternum gets my message across.
08/05/93 (110km) - Back on the road after a leisurely breakfast - it's not too far today but I know it's a boring road. Again the headwind is tough but I get the first 60km done at a sprint and it's pretty easy thereafter. Meet Steve, Val and Pascale on the road and catch up with Lilongwe gossip - then on without a break to Salima. Arrive to find a note saying "back soon" from Sean and Ursula so I sit on the doorstep to recover my water debt and do some reading. When they return there's good news - I can avoid cycling to Senga Bay as Daniel's in Lilongwe [my task was to bike to see people not places!] - so I accept a lift to LB Hotel with Patrick instead. A pleasant afternoon hanging out at the pool with Cathy, Gendi and Helen followed by a good meal back in Salima - when the power returns. The others chat on for a long time while I drift in and out of sleep - I need the energy for the morrow.
09/05/93 (140km) - Creep about early in the morning to avoid waking Sean and Ursula and get away after plenty of breakfast. Turns out the new road is open to bikes and nothing else which is ideal. I get a good idea of how a road is built here as I pass all the stages and finally onto the opened road which seems to go on interminably when I thought I was near the junction.
Eventually the Monkey Bay turnoff appears with the news that the Mangochi turnoff is 56km away - hope the road's OK [this area is prone to flooding and washouts]. Luckily it is, much better than I remember it and it doesn't seem long till I am on the main road again. Meet the bikers (2 of them) having a spot of mechanical trouble [the ones I had talked to at Dwangwa, and amazingly was to see again in Cape Town when they turned up at the same hostel].
Nicola wasn't in so I went to PTC [People's Trading Center - the national grocery store chain], still wasn't in when I returned so sat and read on the khonde [porch] for a while. Usual quiet evening.
10/05/93 (25km) - A quick tour of Monkey Bay to see Selwyn and Linda, Andy and Dave - then off to Cape Maclear. See the first snake of the trip slithering across the road in front of me (2 scorpions, a few monkeys and a Klipspringer are the limit of the identifiable wildlife so far). After a rather hot and dusty trip and a visit to the rock formation I arrive to find Lance out, but Vince, him parents and Emma are on the beach. Have my second encouter with a snake near the Rondavels [round holiday cottages] - nearly stepping on it!
Share lunch with Vince and Emma and a leisurely afternoon sleeping and reading. The early evening is equally strenuous - watch the sunset and later enjoy a feast of Kampanga and vegetable stew, again courtesy of Vince and Emma. Lance finds space for me in his house luckily, despite having parents in situ.
11/05/93 (80km) - Up for sunrise, then spend a while getting away (reading on the beach seems more fun than cycling). Back to Nicola's to pick up my stuff, then to see Dave for some lubricant for the bike - and off.
Fairly easy day - not too hot, not too windy and flat. Reach Mangochi for a late lunch at the ice cream place, then off to find the house. After a detour to the wrong school I get to the correct door: Helena and Alice appear as I pen a note and had not got my letter - so they were a little surprised! They coped well though (despite both working in the evening) - I occupied myself reading "Car" magazine (?!) while they slaved away over a hot lesson.
12/05/93 (85km) - Another straightforward day: 50km on the flat, a drink stop at Ulongwe, then onto the shortcut to Balaka. Not sure that the road will be OK, but after a lot of up and down initially it is OK, except for a washboard section in the middle [where a dirt road develops closely spaced ridges perpendicular to traffic]. Balaka seems to appear faster than expected - it's a lot less boring steering to avoid the rough bits than going on smooth tar.
Arrive before lunch so a very relaxing afternoon is possible (reading Q this time) with a quick look at Balaka. Not much to see except the Nissen hut style PTC (the new one is supposed to open soon - but it has meant to open soon for 6 months). The usual laid back evening (with a bit of bike maintenance), good food and music.
