21/05/93 (40km) - A day to relax, but a visit to Kapachira Falls seems in order - is the road as bad as parents (mine and Vince's) made out? Turns out it is very good with a few bad bits thrown in - steep ups and downs to cross streams. Some great views over the Shire to enjoy and the Falls are impressive, though the extent of the driftwood suggests a great deal more water comes over at times. Manage to find Malawi's answer to poison ivy (more like stinging nettles in effect though) and almost tread on another snake (python possibly from the size). Otherwise very relaxing and pleasant, another puncture notwithstanding.
Back to Chikwawa for a good feed, then as I relax Laura turns up a day early - and of course the place is in a mess. Once I get things in order we have a good chat, then it's back to reading and listening to music.
22/05/93 (50km) - Time for the big climb as "Ian Curtis Death Day" is not going to happen [this is too long a story to explain!]. Off while the day is cool, enjoy the view from Kamuzu Bridge and the initial flat stretch: but not the thought or the sight of the escarpment [it's about a 1000m (over 300ft) climb to Blantyre]. Oh well, here goes, and sure enough it's steep, and slow. I stop to photo the view at about 300m (1000ft) then onwards and upwards. The first part of the climb is actually better than expected but it is followed by a fair drop and then an equally tough climb which somehow seems much harder.
Very glad to reach the police post at Milare (glad to see the polis?!) - from here there are someups and downs but the worst is done.Reach Blantyre and some welcome milk and crisps at the Mobil station - but where am I? I know I'll find the Catholic Cathedral - from there I just ride on until I recognise myself as being at the Blantyre Club - chabwino [approximates to "cool" or "great", from here I can locate my friends' house]. M and K are out but John is around so I can move in and mess up the place, when they get back we take off for Michiru Mountain - what a view! Unfortunately we've holed the petrol tank so we can't stay long.
M and K and the other houseguests (Richard of World Food Program and Gill, VSO from Ncholo) are all out in the evening so I eat (what else), read (ditto) and listen to music (ditto).
23/05/93 (20km) - Rare opportunity for a long lie in in the morning - thoroughly enjoyed! Once I finally arise, the task for the day is to get around all the other volunteers in Blantyre. My luck is not in - after finding Peter Pettett and Jim Bloomfield no-one else is around until Dave reappears at Concern just in time. Trouble finding Sheila's flat as it is out of the way and the map's wrong - then she's out!
A second round of visits nets me Robin and Phil, so there's going to be a fair bit of cycling tomorrow. Another quiet evening (where is Tim the party animal?) with a bit of pigging out on choccie biscuits and peanuts.
24/05/93 (0km) - More luck today - I get around everyone eventually [as the goal was to visit all VSO volunteers I toured the city to find them]. Begin the day by running into Sarah and Geoff (they were looking for me and I for them) and arrange to go to DIPAM [Disabled Persons Association of Malawi, the charity I'm fundraising for] for 1pm. Head first into town to see Vince and Emma (who kindly donate 2 mini Mars bars to the trip), then off to Limbe to get Linda and Sheila, back to the hospital for Jacqueline, over to the new rehab centre for Bernard, back for a bit of lunch and off to DIPAM.
George and Mussa are at the office to meet me and Malawi Broadcasting Company do another interview (with both myself and Mussa). After a chat I take the short road to Cheshire Homes to find Desiree and Hilary (and a cup of tea!) before getting back to Queen Elizabeth Central Hospital to meet [fellow dentist] John for a lift to the hash run. Running is not too difficult (though I hardly strain myself) and the hashers kindly donate their takings for the night to the cause - after the obligatory down down (unpleasant with ice cold beer).
25/05/93 (160km) - Another early start and the rest has done me good as I feel fresh. It's also an easy start down out of Blantyre in the cool with some good views over the plain. Once the sun gets up, though, the slog begins. There is a lot of dull, flat tar today [was i really missing the rough and rocky roads?!] and it's a relief to reach the drop to the Shire River (final crossing!). Even the climb on te other side breaks the monotony - but it's a very hot and tired cyclist who pulls up at the "3-way store" at the road junction [with the road from Zomba].
A long rest in the shade, the cooling effects of several drinks, a sleep and the Mars bars help allay the 35km-to-go-blues but it's still a struggle to get back on the bike and going again. I am lucky it was not this hot very often or I would have struggled.
The final stretch was a chore but gradually the distance diminished and the final climb to Ntcheu was not as bad as I'd thought, particularly as the day cooled. I was however VERY glad to get to Louise's for the obligatory mix of cold drinks and tea.
We managed a bit of a party in the end: Ian and Rob from Concern, Chris (with an update on Lilongwe gossip) and Frankie. Nice finish to a tough day and a good way to forget the challenge of tomorrow for a few hours.
26/05/93 - Not off as early as hoped today given the tough challenge ahead - a good breakfast took priority with the tough first 20km in mind. A day of big climbs and drops but with the compensation of much cooler weather and the thought of Dedza Pottery Coffee Shop to encourage the weary body. Good views too and an interesting sight of people moving back into Mozambique (roofs and all) [a peace agreement had been reached so people were moving out of refugee camps located just on the Malawi side of the border. Wood to build was scarce so they carried their round roofs from the camp housing back "home".]
I never really seemed to get going today - feeling constantly tired as I struggled up hills and got little relief on the downhills. One of those days where you are desperate for another 10km marker. By the time I reached Dedza I was in low spirits, particularly as the next 90km was familiar and I knew it to be tough. It's amazing the effect of cheesecake and a plate of Dedza delights though - I left the Coffee Shop with a tight schedule but was now in the mood to go for it.
Kept good time for the rest of the day - familiarity turning out to be an advantage, although I was tired I was "going home". Really tired by Nanjiri but a couple of cokes kept me going to Area 11. Once there Didge and Ren looked after me well, I met Andy and John, Pat dropped by and as per usual food +++ was consumed!
27/05/93 - Glad to have an easy day for once. Off early to get to NRC and see Tim and Wendy, but failed to find their house by 7.30am. Saw Wendy on the motorbike though. Straightforward run to Namitete, a good rest beyond the bridge and then on to Magawa Secondary School. Lunch of nsima and beans with Julian and ? followed by a very easy stretch to Mchinji - though it feels like a longer way as every 100m is marked on the road. Found my way to Helen and Olly's house but there's no-one around to let me in. Luckily Olly arrived just as I was wondering what to do and after wandering round Mchinjiwe spent the rest of the afternoon dossing. As per usual an evening of food and an early night.
28/05/93 - A rather unknown quantity today - long distance on a road of rather dubious reputation. First advice was to go back to Magawa as the shorter road was bad.[I assume I ignored the advice at this point]. Things went quite well in fact, the road was generally OK for the early stretches and a handy bottle store provided a pleasant rest. As I got towards ? [I was a little hazy on the geography of this area] the road became more undulating, the ruts bigger and the sand and dust deeper, but my resolve held and I ploughed on (less concerned for the bike than earlier in the trip).
Very nice stop in a village with a group of locals on the grocery khonde (one good English speaker) before more up and down interspersed with good flat sections. Came upon a sign for a PTC in the absolute back of beyond that puzzled me before a greater mystery took over - why was my orientation to Kasungu Hill all wrong? Answer: it was another hill, but it took me a lot of worrying to realize this.
Things get tougher as the sand gets deeper and the doubts greater but after a good guess at a turnand an enquiry of a motorcyclist I flagged down I finally find the M1 [main road] - and another welcome stop. Here I chatted with a real Anglophile [an old man who loved everything British from his teacher in the 1930s on] and several others followed by a final 20km on lovely tar. Some trouble finding Neil's house - but a very pleasant evening.
29/05/93 - The last day dawns clear and warm (of course!). I go well as I count down the kms to Dowa, unfortunately Club Falklands is shut at this time but Mponela PTC furnishes milk and biscuits. Quick detour a few km down the road to Ntchisi to get my final district and it's off on the final straight (almost). Decide not to risk an unknown shortcut and take the main Dowa turn for my third bike trip up the dirt road. Fairly easy going as maintenance has been carried out, though the village seems to recede just as I think I'm getting close. Nice to end the trip where my "tour of duty" began and that Rachel has agreed to host a party [we did our initial training at the Red Cross Centre next to Rachel's house].
Much fun is has by all in the evening, Mark celebrates future fatherhood by getting paralytic and it ends with the usual few still on the go when everyone else has crashed (me, Sean, Ursula). I couldn't be bothered to drink so something must be up with my body!
30/05/93 - Final wind down: tidy up after the party, say farewell to the other guests and take a gentle walk up Dowa Hill before meandering my way to Lilongwe.
In the end I raised about $1000 (œ 650) which was a very large sum for a grassroots organization like DIPAM. Thanks to everyone who helped out, and apologies to the volunteer who inherited the bike!
